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Get ready for Fashion Week’s Spring/Summer 2017 collection review! We bringyou the latest trends on the runway of New York Fashion Week, London Fashion Week, Milan Fashion Week and Paris Fashion Week. The Fashion
London Fashion Week
For a start, many of the shows felt like costume plays — exercises in fantasy-making with little relation with the real world.
Christopher Kane’s RTW 2017 collection was a mash-up of “see now, buy now” and what we will have to wait for until next spring. The show opened with an intarsia fur coat with a vintage appeal, a theme that carried over into a fur skirt in a later look. He moved to overpowering prints that looked like emoticons, over-exaggerated, child-like flowers and fireball sketch squiggles. Metal rings were a common theme, piercing jackets and dresses, and he even showed an entire dress made of metal rings. He later softened the approach adding metallic flecked knits and plisse pleating with tiered lace overlays for a ladylike twist.
The trench coat was absolutely where it’s at in Sharon Wauchob’s spring 2017 RTW collection. Gorgeous, tailored and architecturally significant, these made for statement outerwear pieces for spring. She did a brilliant job pitting fluid, billowy fabrics up against rigid, crisp enhancements in shirt collars and lapels throughout the collection. Really rich, heavy satins looked great but might not be so welcome on a warm spring day. Her easy, flowing styles were airy, which made them appropriate for the warmer temps of summer, but the shapes were less than flattering. She included some delicate lace spaghetti-strap dresses which helped further her presence in the day-to-evening arena.
Well, if you like your fashion to look and feel like your most trusted, comfortable best friend, then Pringle of Scotland’s spring RTW 2017 will hit your sweet spot. The design team at Pringle did what the house has done best for years, creating interesting fashion that meets form and function. Oatmeal colored, fine gauge sweaters draped and shaped without effort. The knits were different from the cottons and laces and diaphanous fabrics we’ve been seeing. You can also always count on the line to honor the Scottish heritage in the tartan plaids and knits. A strong collection of easy, wearable pieces perfect for mixing, matching and layering.
Blame it on an inability to understand what’s was going on in the Joseph spring RTW 2017 collection, but amidst a flood of voluminous shapes and lots of layering it was difficult to tell where one piece ended and the other one started. There was just a lot of fabric going on here and virtually everything was oversized. With a gender neutral feeling, thoughts lingered on wondering whether this was comfortable dressing, or complicated dressing? Will any of these pieces stand on their own?
Amanda Wakely’s spring 2017 RTW collection was so visually satisfying, it deserved a second look. While her style is notably safe and conservative, she added the prettiest, feminine details that served up elegance in movement and style. With soft, supple fabrics, muted artistic patterns and cuts that favored a women’s body, Wakely gave her clients plenty to keep them looking sophisticated and polished, yet with ease. The line had several separates that could be dressed up or down maximizing its wearability.
Christopher Bailey of Burberry Prorsum is not messing around with getting on the “see now, buy now trend” that is sweeping designer houses around the globe. A huge collection of 83 looks for him and her gave plenty of reason to pull out the charge cards. The craftsmanship and detail of this collection was luxury times 1000. Bows and ruffles at the collar, rich patterns, velvets and elegant lace gave an Elizabethan flair. The expected and welcome military looks were crafted in olive with bold rope regalia patterns on jackets. Season after season Burberry delivers some of the most extraordinary shearlings for men and women and they didn’t disappoint this season. The highlight was a navy shearling jacket with bell sleeves.
New York Fashion Week
With a mix of SS 2017 and fall 2016 presentations, NYFW comes to a close. Some key directions forspring/summer 2017 have emerged and some fresh new looks for fall were offered.Quite literally there is not a seam or a stitch out of place in the Michael Kors spring/ summer 2017 collection. Reflecting refined and impeccable tailoring, the clothes gave a sense of a woman who’s in control. Clean lines and sharp tailoring make for smart looking clothes.Season after season, Thom Browne. proves himself to be one of the most creative and innovative designers and his spring RTW for 2017 was a spectacle to behold. A nifty bit of sleight of hand in tailoring, Browne showed himself a master magician in creating optical illusion garments. A good example was a sheath dress that looked like a three piece suit, neck tie and all. Then there was the intarsia cardigan sewn atop a skirt and blouse, but again, all one piece. Abracadabra and with one touch, Browne made magic happen!Since practically forever, Christopher Bailey has shown in a purpose-built tent in Hyde Park that’s always decorated to match the theme, and usually has a see-through roof so the weather can play a part in the show. To mark the start of the traditional house’s Showandshop era, they also changed the location. And namely to Makers House, located near Oxford Street. The show transformed into a social media experience. Nonetheless, this “see now, buy now” collection – which can also be seen on the October covers of many magazines – isn’t just typical Christopher Bailey for Burberry, but also magnificent. Starting with key pieces like officers’ coats, all the way to pyjama jackets and relaxed sweater looks combined with stand-up collar blouses underneath.Mary Katrantzou sent her models down the runway to Guns N’ Roses’ Paradise City for the finale! Beyond that, her journey into her Greek roots with antique prints and glittering embroidery in kaleidoscopic patterns was wonderful to see.
Paris Fashion Week Spring/Summer 2017
Phoebe Philo ‘s SS 2017 collection for Céline lacked a cohesive theme or message. Menswear inspiration came in the form of jackets that were boxy and oversized or elongated and tailored. Soft pleats and knotted hems in pastel dresses gave the collection a feminine vocabulary. Abstract anatomical prints and black crochet detail made a statement, but as to just what she was trying to say, we’re not exactly sure. Ms. Philo seemed to march to the beat of her own drummer, with little recognition of the key trends that have emerged for the season. While that kind of independence and creativity can be refreshing, this collection felt restrained. That being said, there were certainly some wearable looks within the collection that will find their way into fashionable closets.Riccardo Tisci showed us there was another way to do feminine looks without the pleats and ruffles. For Mr. Tisci there is a powerful side to the feminine story and he showed it beautifully in his SS 2017 collection for Givenchy. Crisp tailoring and clean silhouettes delivered just the right notes of sensuality and confidence. Whether it was a tailored black suit with oversized pockets or a diaphanous slip dress with a moiré pattern worn over a tank dress, these clothes suggested a woman who is comfortable and self-assured. Even when he went to a wild mash-up of patterns and stripes, the looks still had a simple elegance. It wasn’t a matter of less is more; it was a case where all is good.From the very first look we were sold on Pierpaolo Piccioli’s solo debut for Valentino. His SS 2017 collection was full of the modern, romantic sensibility that has become the label’s trademark. Airy, diaphanous dresses with some of the most beautiful embroideries we’ve seen so far took our breath away. A favorite? A deep V-neck with delicately beaded flora and fauna designs. A dainty little white dress with a light tropical print and silk-inset pleats was young and fresh. Blush pink jacquard pants reflected an easy chic. A hot pink high-collared cape was pure sophistication. And then there was the ¾ length notch-collar mink coat. Mr. Piccioli may have single-handedly signaled the return of the classic mink.
Milan Fashion Week Spring/Summer 2017
It was really hard to put a finger on the motivations for Pascal Millet’s summer 2017 collection. While the designer suggested that Princess Caroline of Monaco, the 1976 vintage, served as his muse, his clothes had a bit of a 50’s flair here and there. Jumpsuits, short and long, were accentuated with headscarves, a clear nod to the retro. Using a myriad of fabrics from casual cotton to rich silk, he created youthful and spring-like looks. On the whole, it was a presentation of polished, relatable styles perfect for the woman who appreciates understated elegance. One outfit stood head and shoulders above the rest…a denim high- waisted pant, slim fit sport coat and silk bra top peeking out from underneath. This was the perfect suggestion of cool confidence.
Andrew Gn’s SS 2017 RTW was one of the highlights of Paris Fashion Week. Gn’s show was a reminder of how beautiful fashion can be and how fine design really matters. His sophisticated showing of day to evening was pretty, delicate, special and very top drawer. Light, airy chiffons with floral embroidery were done in baby doll dresses and ball gowns. He used denim in an elegant and artistic way. Some all-white or black cotton eyelet pieces made their way in as a basic building block for a strong spring wardrobe staple
Issey Miyake’s spring 2017 RTW collection demonstrated his command for the contemporary with a focus on minimalist lines with maximum effect. Dresses and Capri pants had a tubular shape superimposed with shards of triangles. The juxtaposition of rounded and sharp edges played into Miyake’s brand awareness. Pleating is another strong suit for the designer. He put forth a geometrical pleated top that had a Twilight Zone, dizzying effect. Varying the color tones from primary to neutrals, the collection was well rounded and within the expectations of his loyal following.